What did you do to your NB today? [Archive]

MX-5 Miata Forum > NA/NB (1990-2005) Miata > NB (1999-2005) General discussion > What did you do to your NB today?

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JAGI410

3rd March 2016, 21:44

Scored a nice torsen diff off of ebay for "cheap".

MR2Aaron

4th March 2016, 10:43

Decided to take advantage of Moss Miata's sale and ordered brake pads and rotors since I will finally be replacing a leaking right rear caliper. The top could use some love, any one replaced one? Trying to price out paying someone to do it but not sure what a good price would be on something like that.

I've done this. I'm thinking if you can get it done for $500 (plus parts), that's probably a really good deal.

It's a straightforward job, and mostly just a matter of following the instructions. The hard part for me was getting the nuts to start on the lower bow where it attaches to the body, which took a great deal of struggling. My thumbs hurt for a week after that.

Fighting Sailor

4th March 2016, 11:38

I just replaced my top. It is a Robbins "Streamline" stayfast canvas top, which I ordered from Moss Miata. Installation was not what I would call easy, but, lots of youtube tutorials and a couple extra hands (my son) got the job done... I believe installs average $500, which is also the average price for a quality top. I don't know how deep your pockets are... The install took me two days and was worth saving $500... Plus the satisfaction of being able to point to the top and say "I did that".

SuperfDuper

4th March 2016, 12:46

As much I as I desire that sense of pride, the practicality of doing that in my apartment parking spot seems daunting. Though $500 for labor is pretty penny, enough to consider making it a weekend project. Appreciate the input, as I was so confused by all the different options for tops.

shoult

4th March 2016, 14:27

I've done two tops at my apartment complex. The first I took a leisurely weekend to accomplish. The second I did in less than a day. It's not really that hard. Again the Miata is a comparatively simple car to work on. I've looked at other convertibles and nope.....nope.....nope. Just No!

While your apartment rules may say no working on your car the maintenance people could really give a crap and the office people never actually break the seal of their butts to the chair to go look around. Heck, I even stripped out my last Miata in the parking lot (took about a month) after it got totaled out.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/2000%20Mazda%20Miata/2015-04-08%20-%20Stripping%20the%20Miata/6FF07BB1-4FCC-406E-93E8-E6CC1C8AD001_zps3cknjzce.jpg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/2000%20Mazda%20Miata/2015-04-08%20-%20Stripping%20the%20Miata/6FF07BB1-4FCC-406E-93E8-E6CC1C8AD001_zps3cknjzce.jpg.html)

I did put a car cover over it and made it look as "normal" as possible when I wasn't working on it though.

SuperfDuper

4th March 2016, 14:36

I did put a car cover over it and made it look as "normal" as possible when I wasn't working on it though.

Impressive! The videos I have been watching have made it less intimidating.

tweak89

4th March 2016, 18:08

Installed Pioneer AVH-X1800S head unit. WOW, what a difference! I thought the stocker was fine until I turned on the Pioneer. Like that I can match the gauge backlight color, this one has infinite colors for the left side controls. Also, the app radio is great, basically gives you smart phone capabilities on your radio through your phone. With it, your sub $200 stereo has navigation, streaming music, weather and such. Pretty slick. Downside, only one thing can be connected to the USB port at a time. I figure most of the time it will be my iPod, for getting around to new places where NAV and other location services would be useful I'll plug in my phone. I guess you could also use the AUX jack for the iPod, but I like my song info and playlists accessible from the head unit.

Pretty uneventful install. Have the antennae running of the acc ignition wire for now, might ditch it for a stubby since I really don't use terrestrial radio to often. Reception with the antenna down actually wasn't too bad, but my AM stations wouldn't come in with it in the down position.

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff292/leroycantu/2004%20MX-5%20Mazdaspeed/radio%201.jpg
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff292/leroycantu/2004%20MX-5%20Mazdaspeed/radio%202.jpg

MouseTrap

4th March 2016, 19:38

I literally cleaned my entire car outside with glass cleaner in lieu of the appropriate tools. I am hoping to have plates on it in the next two weeks!!!

238178 238179 238180 238181
238182

All that is really left to do for now is paint the top and A-pillars satin black and get some tires on the black wheels. I am having a hard time not being in it. [emoji3]

Algreen

4th March 2016, 22:07

New NGK ignition wires and COP boots. Tune up mostly complete.

y2kvette

5th March 2016, 00:42

238203

238204

Detailed the engine bay .

Enthuz

5th March 2016, 10:00

238203

238204

Detailed the engine bay .

Beautiful! Impressive work.

Stock4Me

5th March 2016, 10:20

Had ordered the OEM kit from Rosenthal, such pretty parts! :D

Took a couple days earlier this week, but no real drama. Had to build a puller to remove the main crank pulley, it was rusted into place and didn't want to slide over the corrosion. Also trashed the new front main seal by driving it crooked over the crank nose. Local dealer had another... :thumbs: Otherwise it was just a walk in the park.

Sure was nice to hear it purr after being that far into it though! :rofl:

A new Robbins Streamline top arrived Thursday - that's next on the list. ;)

tweak89

5th March 2016, 11:07

Changed the plugs/coils/wires this morning.

doane2u

5th March 2016, 11:17

238203

238204

Detailed the engine bay .

How about some details on how you detailed it... it looks fantastic :thumbs:

Waltzy23

5th March 2016, 12:09

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff292/leroycantu/2004%20MX-5%20Mazdaspeed/radio%201.jpg
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff292/leroycantu/2004%20MX-5%20Mazdaspeed/radio%202.jpg

You're going to love having that in the car. I absolutely love mine :wave:

Nitram

5th March 2016, 12:23

Yeah I have the Pioneer AVH-X4500BT love it, one of the best things I added to this car

bobesser

5th March 2016, 13:06

Worked on the (used) roll bar install. Got it all bolted up with new hardware. Now I just have to finish it up and replace the carpet while I am in there.

http://i.imgur.com/6SdKTAe.jpg?1

SuperfDuper

5th March 2016, 13:57

Ended up patching the more worn parts of my top yesterday. Should buy me a little time before it needs replacement, working night shift tonight so may be able to blow out the drain lines I suspect are plugged. Trunk occasionally has a puddle.

y2kvette

5th March 2016, 14:01

How about some details on how you detailed it... it looks fantastic :thumbs:

Nothing really special , a lot of elbow grease. I have to omit the car was pretty clean went I got it from a car dealer 6 months ago. I used a rag with simple green diluted in a water bucket for all the painted parts, took about 3 or 4 passes to get it really clean , then a light coat of wax. For all the plastic and rubber, used 303 protectant sprayed on rag then wiped on . For the intake I used a product called Rub'n Buff , it's a wax with paint in it , put on with a toothbrush and then rubbed in with a soft cloth , got that tip from this forum on a post about painting your intake. I didn't do it all in one day actually took while doing it at my leisure . I was going to pull the intake and paint it , but didn't want to mess with the VVT oil line and all the O-rings involved

Got the Rub'n Buff at Hobby Lobby , comes in a small tube, the color I used is Silver Leaf

jh1129

5th March 2016, 14:36

Just did a Breakfast Burrito run. Sat in the car for some quiet time while waiting for my order.238248 And had to take this picture !

Unusualdesigner

5th March 2016, 16:40

Just did a Breakfast Burrito run. Sat in the car for some quiet time while waiting for my order.238248 And had to take this picture !

Looks good!

Only thing, though; the red arc in the temp gauge should start about 1/8 in past center. ;)

jh1129

5th March 2016, 17:30

Looks good!

Only thing, though; the red arc in the temp gauge should start about 1/8 in past center. ;)

Thanks! It's Revlimiter's Zen gauges, and I was in Zen mode while waiting for my burrito! The red zone was more an aesthetic design to balance the whole look and the gauges have been modded and calibrated via Torque Pro.

Manniquin

6th March 2016, 10:52

In the process of getting new Katzkin leather covers installed in my 05238308238309

There is what the first set of backs looked like.

Katzkin sent out a 2nd set of backs.

Now upholstery installer is saying there are no attachment points inside the seat covers to tie them down to the frame. So he's adding them.

The car has been in this upholstery shop for over a month now.

I am hopeful to get the car back someday but it almost seems like I'm going to have to threaten the upholstery guy to get it back.

He keeps missing his own deadlines

I heard he did good work ... But this has me worried.

J P Stein

6th March 2016, 11:33

I pulled the driver's seat so I could get under the dash. I wormed my way in there and confused the Clifford alarm controller with VoodoII controller (which I was really after). Another waste of a couple hours.

Found the Voodo goddie and can see that access to the innards is not possible with out at least partially removing it. Got discussed and went in and took a nap.

BTW, getting my haid under the dash was a PITA. Getting it out of there was worse and more time consuming. The worst part is I gotta go back in there & rehook the stuff I mistakenly unhooked.....I'm too old for this shyte:(

doane2u

6th March 2016, 12:18

In the process of getting new Katzkin leather covers installed in my 05238308238309

There is what the first set of backs looked like.

Katzkin sent out a 2nd set of backs.

Now upholstery installer is saying there are no attachment points inside the seat covers to tie them down to the frame. So he's adding them.

The car has been in this upholstery shop for over a month now.

I am hopeful to get the car back someday but it almost seems like I'm going to have to threaten the upholstery guy to get it back.

He keeps missing his own deadlines

I heard he did good work ... But this has me worried.

I installed two sets of Katzkins in our '01 and '05 and they came out great. It was a bit challenging, but the hardest part was using the hog pliers to attach the clips. Once you get the hang of it it isn't that bad. The covers do not have the same number of attachment points as the originals, but they seem to work out fine.

Unusualdesigner

6th March 2016, 12:47

There is what the first set of backs looked like.

When my local guy installed the Katzkins on the '92 seats he ran into a similar issue; he said that the foam had shrunk so he added a thin layer of foam over the entire seat, more or less depending on location, and the covers came out looking very, very snug on the seats. -and very comfortable as well.

tenthe

6th March 2016, 16:15

Installed polyurethane exhaust hangers in order to get rid of a rattle. It was a surprisingly easy job, took me about an hour to swap them. My rubber ones were so floppy that they came right off after applying some silicone spray lube. I put some shin etsu grease on the new hangers and they went on without much of a fight. No exhause movement anymore and I can't tell any difference at all in NVH.

Unfortunately, I still have that pesky rattle. It only happens when the front passenger wheel goes over a large bump. I'm thinking now that its either the door or the brake caliper.

linerman55

6th March 2016, 16:18

Installed my catch can. Still some more things to take care of but should be ready for the first autocross event in April.
http://i1275.photobucket.com/albums/y451/lynams/20160304_223706_zpso566bjsu.jpg (http://s1275.photobucket.com/user/lynams/media/20160304_223706_zpso566bjsu.jpg.html)

tweak89

6th March 2016, 16:20

Installed a shifter rebuild kit, changed transmission and differential fluid. I've worked on plenty of cars in my life, but I've never had to buy so many oddball sockets (24mm & 23mm) and other tools (low profile socket wrench, fluid pump) and a pair of extra jack stands to do what should be a simple task.

But, it's done and I won't be crawling under it for at least another year!

amptramp

6th March 2016, 16:54

In the process of getting new Katzkin leather covers installed in my 05238308238309

There is what the first set of backs looked like.

Katzkin sent out a 2nd set of backs.

Now upholstery installer is saying there are no attachment points inside the seat covers to tie them down to the frame. So he's adding them.

The car has been in this upholstery shop for over a month now.

I am hopeful to get the car back someday but it almost seems like I'm going to have to threaten the upholstery guy to get it back.

He keeps missing his own deadlines

I heard he did good work ... But this has me worried.

There is a guy on the next street that I often talk to because he is a pilot and has his own De Havilland Chipmunk. He said he was interested in getting leather seats for his VW New Beetle and asked if I had any suggestions. I said the name Katzskins comes up frequently on car forums and he said he would look into it. I saw him again the following week and he said he was delighted with his new Katzskins and it had only cost him a thousand dollars to get them in and installed. I thought he was going to maybe investigate and plan to do it in a few months time, so I was surprised (and happy that he was pleased woth my advice). BTW he sold his Chipmunk to a guy in Oklahoma and now has real money (US dollars) rather than Canadian pesos. I guess some people still have money somewhere.

MR2Aaron

6th March 2016, 17:46

Unfortunately, I still have that pesky rattle. It only happens when the front passenger wheel goes over a large bump. I'm thinking now that its either the door or the brake caliper.

Check the brake disc backing plates. Mine seem to be loose on the hubs somehow, and occasionally get pushed into contact with the rotor.

Manniquin

6th March 2016, 18:10

While my 05 is resting at the Upholstery shop to get the leather; Seat heater(s) & Lumbar supports installed... I'm trying to get ahead on the electrical switch installation for the seat heaters

the instructions say drill a 20mm hole an make a notch ( un-dimensioned )

I measured the switch and came up with this info ( see attached ):

I 'test mounted' in plastic sheet from Lowes.

jeweler's file in set also from Lowes was just .065 so I worked it back and fort a bit.

the 3/4 inch hole saw apparently had enough slop to end up at 20 mm straight away with out sanding. it is a good tight fit, but I thing is a good fit.

now I just need the car back so I can get the console out and finalize my preferred switch locations; apply the template(s) and start drilling.

I plan on wiring directly off the battery and trigger the relay off the ignition switch / system.

Nitram

6th March 2016, 18:12

In the process of getting new Katzkin leather covers installed in my 05238308238309

There is what the first set of backs looked like.

Katzkin sent out a 2nd set of backs.

Now upholstery installer is saying there are no attachment points inside the seat covers to tie them down to the frame. So he's adding them.

The car has been in this upholstery shop for over a month now.

I am hopeful to get the car back someday but it almost seems like I'm going to have to threaten the upholstery guy to get it back.

He keeps missing his own deadlines

I heard he did good work ... But this has me worried.
I never had any of those issues with my Katzkins I installed them myself
This is what they looked like when first installed, they smoothed more over the first week
http://i144.photobucket.com/albums/r192/nitram_b4/DSC00967_zps31b5fbf2.jpg (http://s144.photobucket.com/user/nitram_b4/media/DSC00967_zps31b5fbf2.jpg.html)

wbdiv

6th March 2016, 18:16

I changed the timing belt, accessory belts, water pump, plugs and wires today. Took about 5 hrs having never done it before.

The PO also put the wrong wattage bulbs in the fog lights and one melted so I replaced it. The other is pretty melted (but still works,) I'll replace that one next.

Manniquin

6th March 2016, 18:33

Maybe, I should just have left well enough alone... It's going into the 5th week now with Upholstery guy

me77

6th March 2016, 19:15

...The PO also put the wrong wattage bulbs in the fog lights and one melted so I replaced it. The other is pretty melted (but still works,) I'll replace that one next.I remember that there was a recall for some NB modelyears about melting fog lights. Might be that it's not the previous owner's fault.

Unusualdesigner

6th March 2016, 19:18

I plan on wiring directly off the battery and trigger the relay off the ignition switch / system.

Excellent idea. I'd suggest a fuse close at the battery to be safe.

JAGI410

6th March 2016, 19:56

Rebuilt the shifter, vacuumed out inside and trunk, inflated spare tire to proper pressure, fixed hinge on center console, and went for a drive!

wbdiv

6th March 2016, 20:51

I remember that there was a recall for some NB modelyears about melting fog lights. Might be that it's not the previous owner's fault.

It's a 2000, the other one looks similar except w/o the hole...

http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q319/WBDIV/2000%20NB/IMG_2060.jpg

Manniquin

6th March 2016, 20:58

Excellent idea. I'd suggest a fuse close at the battery to be safe.

Definitely- only wiring issue now is finding hot lead off ignition to engage relay - hope I can find it without crawling under dash.

I hate being upside down under the dash .

daender

6th March 2016, 21:25

Changed out the front brake pads. Anyone have a good picture or knows where the heck those squealers go on the pads for both the front and rear sport brakes?

Wiltzor

6th March 2016, 23:50

Installed a miataroadster short shifter. Gotta wait a couple more weeks to try it out.

jh1129

7th March 2016, 00:50

took out the delrin window guides because of rattles ..... thankfully my stock ones are still in very good shape. I just took off the rails and cleaned thoroughly, shin etsu grease, good as new and no more rattles !!!

Photo

7th March 2016, 01:53

It was yesterday, but non the less - new flywheel, new clutch and bearings, new clutch master+slave+stainless steel line+clutch fluid, transmission heat shield, Ford Motorcraft MT fluid.

All details are in my log http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?p=7901796#post7901796

Unusualdesigner

7th March 2016, 03:18

Definitely- only wiring issue now is finding hot lead off ignition to engage relay - hope I can find it without crawling under dash.

I hate being upside down under the dash .

No need to go under dash

Pull center radio sorround and tap onto cigar lighter circuit to power relay coil. Run power from battery to under console and place relay there as well.

PrintError

7th March 2016, 10:53

Maybe, I should just have left well enough alone... It's going into the 5th week now with Upholstery guy

Five WEEKS?!?!?! I think it took me about half an hour to re-skin two Miata seats and I'm not a professional in any way. I used heavy duty zip ties instead of hog rings, and six years later the seats are still perfect.

PrintError

7th March 2016, 10:54

Worked on the (used) roll bar install. Got it all bolted up with new hardware. Now I just have to finish it up and replace the carpet while I am in there.

http://i.imgur.com/6SdKTAe.jpg?1

Save a few bucks, douche the carpet in Fantastic OxyClean (the blue bottle, any grocery store) and scrub it good. Wet-vac or somehow soak up the liquid, leave it for a day to dry, and it'll look brand freakin' new for under five bucks. :wave:

basil_parphoof_lll

7th March 2016, 11:02

Definitely- only wiring issue now is finding hot lead off ignition to engage relay - hope I can find it without crawling under dash.

I hate being upside down under the dash .
Easy to tap into cigarette lighter circuit .

bobesser

7th March 2016, 12:35

The issue is not the cleanliness, but, that there is a hole in the carpet near the dead pedal. I actually have a used replacement carpet that I cleaned up a week or two ago. I just need to get some time in the garage to make the swap.

Bob

shoult

7th March 2016, 12:51

To start of the season fresh I freshened the fluids.

Redline 75W90 in the diff
Ford Unicorn tears (XT-M5-QS) in the trans.
Mobile1 5W30 in the engine.

The coolant will stay where it is until I install the FFS supercharger and new aluminum radiator.

Then I took it out for a short, top down test on Saturday and a much longer one on Sunday.

The Unicorn tears made a big difference in shifting. Shifts were smoother and were able to be done faster. That may have less to do with the magical tears and more to do with what I drained out of the transmission. The stuff I drained out didn't seem all that old, since it still had a honey golden color. It seemed to be aerated though. I'm thinking it was not the right flavor for the task.

Come on weather! I need a 3-4 day window of 60+, non-rainy days so I can install my FFS supercharger and refresh the cooling system!!!!

N2WMD

7th March 2016, 15:50

After sitting since December with a blown engine, I got the newly rebuilt engine in and got her running and took it out for a short drive and Sunday lunch. Everything looked great with the temp and oil pressure. Got home to find a small coolant leak on the radiator so she is parked waiting on a replacement radiator which should go in on wednesday. Engine is dry and coolant is pooling on the bottom tank of the radiator so shouldn't be any other issues. I took the time while the engine was awaiting parts to add REAL Water Temp, Oil Pressure and Volt meters into the blank under my 1 din radio.

stng_96

7th March 2016, 15:55

Installed my remaining tender springs, worked on my door cards

http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r364/stng_96/IMG_1998_zps4ts8qvyn.jpg (http://s353.photobucket.com/user/stng_96/media/IMG_1998_zps4ts8qvyn.jpg.html)

http://i353.photobucket.com/albums/r364/stng_96/image1%204_zps4v1ybky2.jpg (http://s353.photobucket.com/user/stng_96/media/image1%204_zps4v1ybky2.jpg.html)

nighthawk016

7th March 2016, 16:03

Installed some new NGK plugs. Easiest spark plug replacement I have ever done! and i've been working on my radio and im on the fence about doing the bose-ectomy on my 04 LS

MouseTrap

7th March 2016, 18:34

Mounted the tires and wheels. Should be able to get it on the road Friday [emoji51][emoji51][emoji51][emoji3][emoji322]

238425

Mutt

7th March 2016, 19:06

Changed out the front brake pads. Anyone have a good picture or knows where the heck those squealers go on the pads for both the front and rear sport brakes?

Funny how there are more replies about finding a hot wire in the dash than answering a brake question.

I left them off my '91

Jesse21

7th March 2016, 20:39

http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff292/leroycantu/2004%20MX-5%20Mazdaspeed/radio%201.jpg
http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff292/leroycantu/2004%20MX-5%20Mazdaspeed/radio%202.jpg

What kind of shift knob are you using?
Nice setup, looks clean

Nitram

7th March 2016, 20:53

If you could do it in 1/2 hour, you are a better man then me, took me about 3 hours,but I used hog rings, I think if zip ties were a better way to go, they would be on there already

SMLierow

7th March 2016, 21:19

The FM intake install is coming along nicely! The amazing Hector at RSpeed installed the O2 signal modifier and the boost gauge today. I don't feel comfortable under the dash sniping wires to the compy, and I don't think my friends would fit. Everything is ready to install the fun bits next weekend! :toast:

Unusualdesigner

7th March 2016, 21:56

Funny how there are more replies about finding a hot wire in the dash than answering a brake question.

I left them off my '91

Because a simple Google search (https://www.google.com/search?q=images+NB+miata+brake+pads&biw=1680&bih=927&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwiT9v6x_a_LAhVL52MKHZQ4D4cQsAQIGw)shows lots of pictures while a Google search can't really tell one the best placement for a specific wiring modification...

There is no real detriment in leaving the anti rattle clips out other than possible noise or binding of pads. Leaving the spreading springs out can cause excessive pad wear. Of course, YMMV. :D

PrintError

8th March 2016, 12:10

Bob

:thumbs:

PrintError

8th March 2016, 12:11

If you could do it in 1/2 hour, you are a better man then me, took me about 3 hours,but I used hog rings, I think if zip ties were a better way to go, they would be on there already

Hog rings are a *expletive deleted*, but they're more permanent. Heavy duty zip ties are super fast and will last a long time, but obviously the MFR can't do that.

JonK67

8th March 2016, 14:59

Come on weather! I need a 3-4 day window of 60+, non-rainy days so I can install my FFS supercharger and refresh the cooling system!!!!

If you start this wknd (if rain misses us) let me know, I'll come over for a few hours to help or drink beer and supervise :)

shoult

8th March 2016, 15:11

If you start this wknd (if rain misses us) let me know, I'll come over for a few hours to help or drink beer and supervise :)

Siri says it's not looking good. Warm but rainy and/or thunderstorms everyday except Mon-Tues of next week. Bleh.

nwick

8th March 2016, 18:18

Out of hibernation.

Arctic Jon

8th March 2016, 19:59

Today I bought a new Duracell dry cell battery. Tested at the Batteries Plus shop at 600 cca. Started Pluma for the first time in months. It's been in my garage all winter, but spring is coming early in my part of Alaska. Insurance goes back on tomorrow!

EmeraldNB99

8th March 2016, 20:19

Uncovered her and gave her a new battery just like Arctic Jon. She started up just fine after months under the covers.
Getting ready for new wheels in a couple months. I'm still trying to decide between the Storm S1, Dial Ins and the new Hypergram...15x8 and grey is what I can decide on.

daender

8th March 2016, 20:33

There is no real detriment in leaving the anti rattle clips out other than possible noise or binding of pads. Leaving the spreading springs out can cause excessive pad wear. Of course, YMMV. :D

I made sure to GIS brakes pictures before asking. No one has a good photo of the front sport rotors that shows where the squealer goes on the stock OEM Mazda pad. If you noticed in your own image search, many of those photos are of the regular 1.8 brakes.

One last thing, apparently sport brakes don't come with spreading springs!

Unusualdesigner

9th March 2016, 01:58

One last thing, apparently sport brakes don't come with spreading springs!

I suppose next time I pull the wheels off my NB I could take a couple of close ups.

Kmier

9th March 2016, 05:55

One last thing, apparently sport brakes don't come with spreading springs!

That's what I found. No spreading springs included in rear OEM pad kits for 'sport suspension' (big brakes), and the OEM pad kit was the ONLY source for the anti rattle clips that I could find. Many sources claim to have them, but they are for the regular brake calipers and are different. Stopped my very annoying rattle completely.

aussieguy

9th March 2016, 08:21

Come on weather! I need a 3-4 day window of 60+, non-rainy days so I can install my FFS supercharger and refresh the cooling system!!!!

I know where you can find that weather... Come on down
only had to put on long pants and sweater a couple of times this winter
my flip flops are pretty worn out

PrintError

9th March 2016, 11:18

I know where you can find that weather... Come on down
only had to put on long pants and sweater a couple of times this winter
my flip flops are pretty worn out

Jax Beach here, we've had the same weather :):jump:

JAGI410

9th March 2016, 11:51

This morning was a 30 degree drive into work with the top down and the heater up!

bobesser

9th March 2016, 14:18

Spent some time this morning working on completing the roll bar install. Bit by bit it will be done. Hardware is done, just need to complete putting all panels back in place.

BGold

9th March 2016, 15:39

Practiced welding for the first time to repair my frame rails and some body work.. only manged to light half my work bench on fire.

shoult

9th March 2016, 17:39

Practiced welding for the first time to repair my frame rails and some body work.. only manged to light half my work bench on fire.

Then you're not doing it right.....

Go big or go home.

sixspeed

9th March 2016, 17:46

^^^^ Now that right there is funny. Good one shoult :D

MouseTrap

9th March 2016, 21:33

As a welder/fabricator I should advise to not practice on things you like. Or on flammable work stations. [emoji12]

MouseTrap

9th March 2016, 21:35

On a side note, I insured my car today and received my new SickSpeed gold chrome lugs in the mail. Friday I get plates, Friday night I go in search of giggles. Though I doubt they'll be very hard to find. [emoji3]

em1zack

10th March 2016, 01:30

Let the tires down from 45 to 26 put the top down and drove her to work. The weather here has been lousy till the last couple of days. Oh how I have missed that drive - took the back roads home. She is free from the basem*nt at last. Looking forward to more time behind the wheel and better weather - the mountain roads are calling!!!!! :D

jack kun aguero

10th March 2016, 15:05

im getting my NB miata today

Wiltzor

10th March 2016, 15:16

Got my RE-11's mounted on my new Storm S1's!

205/50/15 on 15x8. A little more 'over-square' than I was expecting, but surely won't be mistaken for stance bro stretch.

JonK67

10th March 2016, 15:35

Got my RE-11's mounted on my new Storm S1's!

205/50/15 on 15x8. A little more 'over-square' than I was expecting, but surely won't be mistaken for stance bro stretch.

What's the ET on those rims, +20 or >? I like the S1 and hope they make them in 16" soon as mentioned in another thread.

Wiltzor

10th March 2016, 15:50

What's the ET on those rims, +20 or >? I like the S1 and hope they make them in 16" soon as mentioned in another thread.

+25

Wiltzor

10th March 2016, 15:59

Oh! I also installed my supermiata hybrid motor mount kit from 949 (driver's side is Mazda comp and passenger side is supermiata poly).

bobesser

10th March 2016, 16:06

This, among other things. Now, I just need to figure out how to get the rest of the carpet out without pulling the dash. I have read several people say just cut it close and leave it - but I plan on putting a different carpet in place. I have heard just cut the drivers side and pull it out from the passenger side. I haven't tried too hard or too long yet, but, it is not trivial.

http://i.imgur.com/n7oveGoh.jpg

XavierL13

10th March 2016, 16:31

Installed a "Miata Console Support Knee Pad (http://www.zetaproducts.net/consolekneesupportpadmadetofit89-05mazdamiata.aspx)" a couple months ago,
BUT I just tested on recent 500 mile Hwy 1 road trip.
What a difference! Should've done this years ago!

Being 6' tall in my NB, my knee Always rubbed (!) against the center console when cruising.
Guess I have a "wide stance" and splay out too often.
(modified/shortened my dead pedal 15 years ago for comfort on that other extended leg side)

The vendor pictures it installed 180º from my final install.
The way I installed it put it higher/closer to the biggest portions of my knee rub spot.
It uses 3 strips of 3M Velco to install mount it firmly in place.
It's about 5.25" High (tapers down to 2.5" high), 5" Long, and 1" Width/Thick ...

I bought the same NA/NB version from the official Vendor at his ebay store,
[cheaper than his website], under the name: "Universal Center Console Knee Cushion".
(The '09-'14 version model looks very different, much more custom shaped at vendors formal website).

(p.s.: I have no affiliation to this vendor, I just like some of his simple doo-hickeys)

http://i.imgur.com/MlTK2HS.jpg

Unusualdesigner

10th March 2016, 16:37

im getting my NB miata today

:welcome:

I'm sure you'll have lots of questions, don't be shy and ask away!

Unusualdesigner

10th March 2016, 16:44

It's a little "complicated" The two tabs that hold the dash under the tombstone [bolts visible via the 2 access holes on either side of the tombstone] go through slots cut in the carpet. I replaced the carpet on a '94 by loosening all dash bolts and raising it enough to lift the carpet out over the tabs. Installed the new carpet same way.

Still a PITA since you have to remove the pillar trim and remove all fasteners but less of one than if you had to completely remove the dash by unplugging all connectors, etc, etc.

bobesser

10th March 2016, 16:46

Still a PITA since you have to remove the pillar trim and remove all fasteners but less of one than if you had to completely remove the dash by unplugging all connectors, etc, etc.

So, remove the pillar trim, unbolt the bolts on either side of the tunnel and on either end of the dash and it will be loose enough to sort of lift a little?

I was able to cut slits to the fastener holes on either side of the tunnel.

sixspeed

10th March 2016, 16:51

http://i.imgur.com/MlTK2HS.jpg

:thumbs:

I used the wrist rest portion of a combination wrist/mouse pad. It's gel filled. Cost me $6. I left part of the mouse pad portion on it and slipped it up under the console while adding a little bit of velcro to the back of the wrist pad portion.

bobesser

10th March 2016, 16:52

:thumbs:

Clever!

Unusualdesigner

10th March 2016, 16:58

So, remove the pillar trim, unbolt the bolts on either side of the tunnel and on either end of the dash and it will be loose enough to sort of lift a little?

Yep, should be able to. A second pair of hands comes in handy as well as loosening the steering column from the dash. Also the 10 mm bolt at the center of the dash by the windshield. Pop the cover with a small screwdriver

I was able to cut slits to the fastener holes on either side of the tunnel.

That would work....

hox

10th March 2016, 19:52

Oh! I also installed my supermiata hybrid motor mount kit from 949 (driver's side is Mazda comp and passenger side is supermiata poly).

Looking forward to your review of these. NVH was my biggest issue with both sides using the Supermiata (AWR) mounts. I took mine out and installed comp mounts both sides and sold the AWR mounts. Missing some shifts on the track makes me want to consider the hybrid option.

Wiltzor

10th March 2016, 19:59

It'll be another two weeks or so until I have the car back on the road, but I'll be sure to either update here or make a new thread (seeing as how I can't find any reviews of these at the moment).

MouseTrap

10th March 2016, 21:09

I charged my AC, installed some SickSpeed lugs and polished my head lights. Tomorrow I get the plates!!!!!!!!! Effing stoked[emoji3][emoji120]🏼

238639 238640

pmf73

10th March 2016, 23:41

Recently hit 160,000 miles and did an oil change along with gearbox/rear end fluid, plugs and rotated tires.

Took advantage of Moss's free shipping offer and picked up a shifter rebuild kit. Both upper and lower boots were completely trashed so it was well overdue.
It's obviously just me, knowing that the boots are brand new, but it seems like the cabin is significantly quieter.. She definitely shifts a bunch smoother now.

SuperfDuper

11th March 2016, 06:35

New shift knob! Originally ordered a Blox knob since Moddiction was out of stock. Gave it almost a year and the extra tall shaft was just bothering me. Accidentally ordered a knob from Moddiction while a little intoxicated and forgot about it. Well it showed up today, thanks drunk me!

Warhammer

11th March 2016, 09:19

My less than 1 year old battery died, so I took it to Batteries Plus for a replacement under warranty. They said they have to keep it overnight to check for "neglect and abuse." All the while there was an undercurrent of "our batteries don't fail, it must be your fault" in the way the clerks talked to each other and to me. Some of the worst customer service ever! I'm fully expecting them to try to weasel out of the warranty and I'm going to have to go up the chain to a regional manager to get anything done. On top of that, when they installed the battery last June (my back was out so I let them do it) they cross-threaded the battery hold down bolt, so it snapped off when I tried to remove it. Of course, the no chance at all that they'll accept responsibility for that. :realmad:

Warhammer

11th March 2016, 09:49

(p.s.: I have no affiliation to this vendor, I just like some of his simple doo-hickeys)

http://i.imgur.com/MlTK2HS.jpg

I like that pad, but I have footwell lights mounted in the bolt cover plates on the sides of my console. Do you think the pad could be mounted so that it would not cover those plates and still be useful?

MouseTrap

11th March 2016, 17:02

Looks like I have a photo quota...anyhow I put my mousetrap on the road today. I'm hooked. M.I.A.T.A. From now on.

Photo

11th March 2016, 18:39

Installed RoadsterSport 3. Haven't driven with it yet though, but sounds fine at idle in garage.

http://i.imgur.com/uSUiZQW.jpg

MouseTrap

11th March 2016, 22:44

http://i495.photobucket.com/albums/rr317/jbill5/E01B51EE-6499-4F05-96B7-5D4523D10668.jpeg (http://s495.photobucket.com/user/jbill5/media/E01B51EE-6499-4F05-96B7-5D4523D10668.jpeg.html) I think I figured it out. Finally on the road[emoji3]

shoult

11th March 2016, 23:23

You need to move that front license plate before too long. It's blocking most of the air to the radiator.

Silvernort

12th March 2016, 00:01

Went to Harbor Freight with a coupon someone on this forum was kind enough to link and picked up a low profile, extended reach floor jack. Just tried it out and it is wonderful! Saved like $90 off their list, so not a bad deal.
Thanks again to that unknown Miata netter.

XavierL13

12th March 2016, 01:33

The whole idea of the pad is to size it precisely where your side knee cap rubs into the center console. So maybe measure precisely where your knee hits and see what size and shape knee pad you might need. I put my pads measurements up, you can make a paper template and really see...

Or draw yourself a perfect custom template of what pad size would works best for your needed shape. The vendor also sells different size pads that might work, but I got the cheapest one. I kinda like that other fellas idea of using the gel part of a mouse pad to make one. As long as it doesn't get pants material rub dirt or knee sweat. All my gel and neoprene covered mousepads in my offices get grotty / dirty / torn after a while.

But, the one I got fits me nearly perfectly, It has a very nice fit and finish to it, it is auto interior materials grade, won't absorb knee sweat or pants shmutz, and 1" thick is the thickness I needed after all. I have big boney sharp knees and knee caps, and before, I would even see red marks on my knee side from my knee lazily digging into the console on long highway trips, when wearing short pants.

What I do recommend is to use genuine Velcro brand velcro / 3M brand Velcro when you install whatever you install. The genuine stuff always works best in my experience. Or "shoe goo" is a good rubberize cement to stick weird stuff to plastic, vinyl, and leather, as it can be 'rubbed off/peeled off' if you genuinely make a mistake or remove whatever pad you stick to the knee impact spot...

Seriously, if you are one of those people who knee sometimes digs into the console, any knee side pad really makes a difference!

SMLierow

12th March 2016, 04:13

Intake almost finished! We had a problem removing the air sensor, so it's off to the auto parts store tomorrow for a deeper socket.

PaddyG

12th March 2016, 08:32

I think I am going to reinstall my interior that is out from the stereo install and go for a ride. With the top down!

sdcrjohn

12th March 2016, 10:12

Installed RoadsterSport 3. Haven't driven with it yet though, but sounds fine at idle in garage.

http://i.imgur.com/uSUiZQW.jpg

Very nice! Looks very factory.

John

2002 sunlight silver

bobesser

12th March 2016, 11:51

I think I am going to reinstall my interior that is out from the stereo install and go for a ride. With the top down!

That is what I completed yesterday. Well, roll bar install and carpet replace.
http://i.imgur.com/4FnPUFCh.jpg

Chris GTO TT

12th March 2016, 13:06

Discovered a nice top leak around the rain rail :( I'm going to have to take out the parcel shelf carpet and see if i can find the leak.

Chris GTO TT

12th March 2016, 14:27

Confirmed the rain rain is destroyed along the back side facing the trunk. New exhaust money just became new top money :(

Unusualdesigner

12th March 2016, 14:47

Given where you live and the El Nino predictions, a top would be a better investment. ;)

Chris GTO TT

12th March 2016, 15:20

This is very true, I'm trying to source a good condition one with frame from Craigslist. The Frame on mine seems flimsy and flexible, whereas a few I looked at while at Miatas at MRLS last Oct were much more sturdy. Of course the biggest concern on anything used is the condition of the rain rail. If I can't find a decent condition top local then I'll likely be ordering the Robbins Streamline glass defroster top.

spaniarduk

12th March 2016, 15:41

Confirmed the rain rain is destroyed along the back side facing the trunk. New exhaust money just became new top money :(

I thought you could replace the rain rail on its own?? Not cheap, but cheaper than a new roof!

Chris GTO TT

12th March 2016, 15:48

You can, but the overall condition of my top means replacing it is the better option.

Mal

12th March 2016, 16:04

Confirmed the rain rain is destroyed along the back side facing the trunk. New exhaust money just became new top money :(

It is easy enough to just replace the rain rail. They can be had for $50 to about $170 and can be installed far easier and/or cheaper than the top. You can also repair them. I've had goo success with Goop and sail tape but you have to do the whole plastic rubber interface for if it cracked in one place, it's sure to crack in another.

Summer's comin, who needs a top?

JPS

12th March 2016, 18:04

I decided that I am too cheap to spend $100+ on a new battery. I stumbled upon these gems http://www.batterymart.com/p-dek-02033-flag-to-post-terminal-adapter.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=DEK-02033&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CIyulbyd9MUCFQoSHwod7ZEAUg and will be picking up a walmart tractor battery later today.

Excellent just what I needed. I have a tractor battery in one miata and the other miata's batter died. Replaced with the tractor battery and needed the terminal adapters. Thx.

shoult

12th March 2016, 18:24

I was having a problem with my Nexus 7 indash install running out of power. It'd be fine for several day and then it would just run out of power. I believe the original 2A power supply just can't keep up with the recharging needs. The Nexus7 seems to need more than what this power supply can sustain.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1215_zpsdkjlihnl.jpg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1215_zpsdkjlihnl.jpg.html)

My solution is to upgrade to a higher output supply. I found a decent 10a supply for about $20 shipped. Hopefully this will keep the Nexus7 charged and have enough to power the rest of the items.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/Gen2%20Power%20Supply%20Harness%202_zps02mkgtop.jp g (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/Gen2%20Power%20Supply%20Harness%202_zps02mkgtop.jp g.html)

BTW, this removes a several pounds of weight and really empties out a huge hole in the center stack behind the Nexus7

I'm also moved the HVAC controls UP to fill that gap below the Nexus7 and the HVAC controls. That should give me enough room to install my AEM Failsafe datalogging AFM/Boost gauge where the passenger airbag use to uselessly sit. I'll also build in a 2 spigot high power USB feed into the panel instead of a useless cigarette lighter. I'm not giving up any of my AC/heat vents for a gauge.

This is the gap below the Nexus7 with the HVAC in the standard spot.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1548_zps63djsldr.jpg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1548_zps63djsldr.jpg.html)

Here it is with the HVAC moved up. so that it's flush with the Nexus7.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1299_zps6u2tm0x3.jpg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1299_zps6u2tm0x3.jpg.html)

All you need to do is remove this little brace.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1295_zpspir1bw3x.jpg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1295_zpspir1bw3x.jpg.html)

The HVAC control will now just slide up. Of course I also moved the useless passenger air bag control to under the console. Here it is ready to shove under the console....

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1297_zpstopfnucd.jpg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1297_zpstopfnucd.jpg.html)

And here it is shoved up and in and tight.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1298_zpsrc3whsl8.jpg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1298_zpsrc3whsl8.jpg.html)

Here's shot of the the empty place after installing the power supply, usb hub and usb digital to analog interface installed and wired up.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1296_zpsdmdstlji.jpg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/Nexus%207%20Install/IMG_1296_zpsdmdstlji.jpg.html)

Algreen

12th March 2016, 19:13

Was having difficulty shifting into reverse when cold, so I bled the clutch line and low and behold, air bubbles. Feeling much tighter now.

JAGI410

12th March 2016, 19:44

Installed the Torsen diff, changed trains fluid, cleaned a few things while I was under the car, then went on a nice test drive.

daender

12th March 2016, 20:08

Bedded in the brakes today along with recording the Roadster Sport 3 with the baffle tip installed (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9g2Q_TTdE_g).

SuperfDuper

12th March 2016, 20:29

Installed new Hawk HPS pads up front along with new rotors. Planned on doing the rears after I replaced the leaky right rear caliper, but alas the father-in-law ordered wrong caliper. Not too big a deal as I also discovered the rear left caliper piston is completely frozen. No movement no matter what we did. So looks like I will be ordering replacements for both rear calipers. Mostly looking at reman'd or rebuilt calipers, but open to suggestions from the gurus. Other than that, new air filter and my rusty front sway-bar end links laughed at my Dremels best efforts. The battle continues, but damn do I love it.....

Manniquin

13th March 2016, 11:44

Looking for switch locations for the seat heaters.

I'm still thinking of the front right and left of the console.

Depending on what I find underneath of course.

I might have to switch to a side mount of some type on the console.

XavierL13

13th March 2016, 14:33

I was having a problem with my Nexus 7 indash install running out of power.
It'd be fine for several day and then it would just run out of power.
I believe the original 2A power supply just can't keep up with the recharging needs.
The Nexus7 seems to need more than what this power supply can sustain.

========

WOW, Man! That is an eye popping way of running DashCommand & Torque, OBD-II apps!

Is this a pure track car, or are you going to hook it up to speakers/amp to play your music and streaming services?
I couldn't give up my FM, CDs and iPhone ALACs thru my stereo, but more and more people are 100% streaming nowadays, so I am not surprised.

I am in IT, and found the Nexus7 needed about a 3-4+ Hour recharge cycle (screen off not used) to get a 100% full charge via 2A.

When the screen is on in full use, running apps and BT, the 2A USB power is mostly 'maintaining' the charge, not in pure charging mode.
And as a battery gets older in a tablet, its 'standby' battery capacity diminishes, and battery still slowly drains when in standby mode.
How old is your Nexus7 battery? Quite easy to replace anew.

So your challenge may be how to keep it powered for 3-4 hours to recharge it fully when screen display is not in use, every few days.
(** crazy theory: maybe you can put a 10000+ mAh external battery pack (http://amzn.com/B009USAJCC) charger behind installed unit inline, your new USB power supply replenishes external battery pack, your Nexus recharges off the Battery pack... or does that probably violate laws of thermodynamics and battery pack charger design?…)

I mount my iPhone in the space between my steering wheel and the center vents, for Navigation,
Music storage (lossless music connected via dock cable to stereo),
BT radio streams, and rare hands-free phone calls (when parked only).

But dash mounted command centers are becoming prevalent in cars, so thanks for the retrofit write-up!

me77

13th March 2016, 14:42

It looks great, but I would never mount anything that fancy in a soft-top convertible. Just looks too inviting for a smash/slash-and-grab.

shoult

13th March 2016, 15:14

This is the car I choose to drive most everyday. With the Nexus7 setup my focus is mostly on OBD-II diaganostics (either Torque or DashCommand) and Waze navigation (my Nexus7 has LTE). It will also play music and video off up to 2) 256GB USB sticks (20K+ songs/each) located in the glove box. This part isn't done yet nor is it a priority. I'm not happy using the Blows power amps and speakers. The sound they provide sucks. I have some 8" woofers, Aura Whisper tweeters as well as a choice of 2 40w/ch RMS amps from my old 2000 install that I'll eventually install instead of the remaining Blows system. I have my 85K song music collection housed in both FLAC for home and 320K .mp3 for use in my cars. In a car you just don't have the system or the enviornment to justify using huge lossless files. And if you're using a streaming service you're lucky if you're getting 192K-256K .mp3. I could use a streaming service, but compared to my collection their selections are so limited for the types of music I like.

As far as charging goes, my current thought is that the original PS just didn't provide the full 2A it was sold as providing and that using a PS rated at 10A will at least provide a constant 5A no matter what the load. Also, I'm using Timurs firmware update that puts the Nexus7 into a deep sleep anytime the key is off. It also wakes up from sleep when the key is turned on. The discharge rate over 24 hours is bout .2 percent while in deep sleep. So discharge with key off is not the problem.

The battery thing may also be something I keep on the back burner as well as opening it up and soldering in 5V with larger gauge wires and a real on/off switch mounted outside the dash just in case. Right now if the battery fullly discharges it will completely turn off and Timur's ROM can't turn it on from the completely off state.

It's always something.

JonK67

13th March 2016, 15:33

Looking for switch locations for the seat heaters.

I'm still thinking of the front right and left of the console.

Depending on what I find underneath of course.

I might have to switch to a side mount of some type on the console.

I'll be adding them too and my switches are rectangular/ larger than yours. I'm looking at the space at the rear of the console on each side of the key hole. I don't want to 'crowd' my front console area and for the 3-4 month season that I'd use them the rearward placement wouldn't be too inconvenient.

john blutarski

13th March 2016, 15:57

Drove it for the first time in about 3 months. Also changed the oil.

XavierL13

13th March 2016, 15:59

It's always something.

Not to nit-pick, but aren't ALL USB car power at 5V?
(whether they are 0.5A, 1A, 2A, 2.1A, 2.4A etc).

You are still putting out 2A per USB connector, Not 10A.
That Daqstuff unit says 5vdc @ 2A, doesn't it?

But still, that replacement unit looks high quality (Two 3A fuses), hopefully this cures it. Good luck, man!

(edits: thanks for the clarifications in your response below ↓↓↓ : Yes, I learned Ohm's Law as a kid, still use it every once in a while!)

shoult

13th March 2016, 16:11

Not to nit-pick, but aren't ALL car USB power at 5V?
(whether they are 1A, 2A, 2.4A etc).

Yes, 5v but its the amperage and load that matters.

You are still putting out 2A per USB connector, Not 10A.
That Daqstuff unit says 5vdc @ 2A, doesn't it?

But the Nexus7 seems to need about 1.7amps to charge it when it is running. 2A doesn't leave a lot of headroom. If for instance the voltage being supplied to the PS is not 12v the output might still be at 5V but not quite 2a. Or if the unit is a Chinese knock off and doesn't really put out 2a (like a lot of eBay Chinese clone iPhone chargers).

Think of electricity something like a garden hose. Voltage is like the diameter of the hose. It is the maximum amount that can flow, the potential. Current is like the pressure in the hose. The more current, the more actual flow. The third part of the equation is whatever is attached at the end of the hose whether it be a sprinkler or a hand sprayer. This is the resistance. Small wires can be seen as a source of resistance and USB cables have notoriously small inner wires.

But still, that replacement unit looks high quality, hopefully this cures your woos.

My hope is that even if it doesn't put out the full 10A it will provide enough to be able to more than keep up.

Unusualdesigner

13th March 2016, 17:07

My hope is that even if it doesn't put out the full 10A it will provide enough to be able to more than keep up.

There is that, however that current is still flowing through gnat's eyebrow sized wiring; ever felt how hot the connector and wire feels when charging at full rate?

My 10" Samsung tablet's wall wart is rated at 5A and when charging the wire and USB connectors get quite warm to the touch. I suppose that there is quite a bit of voltage drop between the supply and the load. -don't know if they use remote sensing or not :dunno:

Manniquin

13th March 2016, 18:05

I'll look at that area as well.

My switches are black and I am not a huge fan of drilling holes in the silver trimmed shifter surround for black switches.

if there is good room aft by the lock mechanism, that could be better... that's where I'm bringing the main wiring from the battery.

Manniquin

13th March 2016, 18:19

A bit off topic, but....

From my electrical engineering and technical schools, I was taught Voltage is the pressure.
Amperage is the flow caused by the combination of the pressure and load's resistance ( or 'demand' )

from Ohm's law : Current (I) = Voltage (V) / Resistance ( R)

if the voltage pushes too much current through a given wire, it melts

if the resistance is too low for a given voltage, the current will be as high as the voltage can make it or until the fuse blows of the wire melts.

I consult AWG gauging charts to double check that my wire is NOT the fuse.

also if your unit is designated in power W ( watts ) , W = IV. you can substitute from there in equations to get the quantity you need.

daender

13th March 2016, 18:54

Autocrossed over in Florence, SC. 5th of 9 entries; not good but not horrible. All the local region members got utterly wrecked by a well-seasoned duo from NCR co-driving a very-desired '99 Hard-S packaged car (one of 900 ordered). I had an awesome WWII-inspired '94 M parked alongside me during grid.

https://40.media.tumblr.com/3b4e6d90c702784541cf0ad095614a62/tumblr_o40226Yz1A1rjy3ipo2_540.jpg https://36.media.tumblr.com/8e5ad61a0f0a300a2cde39ce314555df/tumblr_o40226Yz1A1rjy3ipo1_400.jpg

People say you shouldn't meet your hero, I say BS; now I really want a RB26 GT-R one day.

https://40.media.tumblr.com/614e12ad8ed7581e81b3fc1cbe88bc63/tumblr_o402aya9op1rjy3ipo1_540.jpg

stiglet

13th March 2016, 19:12

Installed FM stage 1 clutch with 10lb flywheel and Koyo 36mm radiator. Transmission is going to need new seals before I get it all back together.

Harv

14th March 2016, 00:48

Last weekend installed a new rain rail from Amazon ($100).

Car presented with recent water in the trunk and light fungus odor always. Existing top is in good shape, so elected to keep top and install rain rail.

Before ordering the rain rail, I removed the rear deck carpet and examined the old rain rail, but did not see a problem. Ordered the rail as I knew if I took out the old rail to inspect it would probably break.

New rail came with rail, compression rivets, seals, and instructions. Took out the old rail and it was the original, brittle, 01 part, with a large crack.

I installed the new rail in place under the old top, following the advice of many many many forum posts here and there that said, "You don't need to reinstall the rivets!" (The rivets attach the top to the rail and are an aid to installing the top and rail into the car as a unit, but are probably not needed after installation.)

However, much unmentioned in said forum posts, the rivet holes in the rain rail DO need to be filled, to keep water from leaking out of the rail.

So I initially tried to fill the holes with the compression rivets that came with the rain rail. Did not work, as those rivets need an anvil-like surface and a hammer to fasten.

So my choices were to pull the rail and seal the holes with rivets or inner-tube patches or to pop-rivet the the rail and top together in place. I chose the latter, which turned out to be not to be to big of a deal because I have a swivel-tip rivet gun and because I finally figured out how to wrestle the outermost parts of the top/rail into position to get the rivets in.

FWIW, I used 3/16 x 1/2 pop rivets with 3/16 rivet washers to replace the original 4 mm rivets (I tried other sizes; the ones I used were just right).

When the rivets were in place, I followed the advice on the rain rail instructions and on many many many forum posts here and elsewhere and used a vinyl-siding tool to very carefully pull the body-lip flange (my term - its the rubber bit on the body behind the top) up above the surface of the convertible top. I even had to loosen the rain rail frame nuts and re-torque them to get this part done. Success!

To test, I poured some water on the back of the roof (what else, it rains here?). And the body lip flange went down below the surface of the top. And all the water went where it was supposed to go anyway. And no more interior water or fungus odor (despite some rain all week).

BOTTOM LINE: If you want to install a new rain rail under an existing top, and dont want to rivet the top to the rail, seal the rivet holes in the front and rear of the rain rail before you install the rain rail. To use the supplied compression rivets, youll probably have to take the top off the car. Dont bother with the body-lip flange. Itll work itself out.

Duckies

14th March 2016, 11:04

Went autocrossing, of course! (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FneT0GUYfoY)

shoult

14th March 2016, 12:33

It looks great, but I would never mount anything that fancy in a soft-top convertible. Just looks too inviting for a smash/slash-and-grab.

My side windows are dark tinted (comes with buying a used southern car) and when the screen is off you really can't see if there is anything in the dash. I never leave anything else in the car that looks inviting/expensive/shiny so there isn't an invitation to check thing out. Also the way it's mounted you have no idea how well mounted it might be. It looks pretty much factory and unless you KNOW that Mazda never put a Nav unit in a Miata even if you see it you wouldn't think that much about it. And really, it's an Android tablet. They're pretty much a dime a dozen. Amazon has an Amazon branded tablet about he same size selling for $50 and you can get unbranded unit much cheaper yet. Do you really think a thief is going to rip apart a dash for a few pennies? If that's all they see in your car, the next car up the road probably has better and more crap in it.

shoult

14th March 2016, 12:40

There is that, however that current is still flowing through gnat's eyebrow sized wiring; ever felt how hot the connector and wire feels when charging at full rate?

I thought about that when I was putting the system together. I had it set up on the bench, running the complete system (tablet, hub, USB DAC, and 256GB USB) with Dash Command, Waze and playing music off the USB stick for 3 weeks without running the battery down. The only difference was the system was powered by a 12v 2A wall wart. The wall wart was feeding the original 12v to 5v 2A PS. The USB to Go cable never got warm at all either.

boatshoozes

14th March 2016, 12:42

Installed RSpeed.net's shifter rebuild kit and was impressed with the solid feel afterwards. Both boots were torn but not badly so, just old. Fixed one lazy cupholder and futureproofed the other while the center console was out. Zoomed around town afterwords to check my work (my favorite part!)

squiggly

14th March 2016, 14:33

Started my kraftwerks install this weekend and got about half way done. Anyone else think their instructions are horrible?

Mal

14th March 2016, 17:36

That tetnique is IAW Robbins instructions but contrary to the Mazda FSM. I can't argue with success but some here have reported leaking where the lip reverses and points down as it has to do.

RJF

14th March 2016, 20:32

We finally have had some nice weather in PA the past week, but no rain to get the salt off the roads. Today, we had a good rain, so I called my insurance agent to get the car back on the road, and rotated the tires. Gonna take her to work tomorrow! Woohoo!

CheapWhine

14th March 2016, 20:54

Bedded in the brakes today along with recording the Roadster Sport 3 with the baffle tip installed (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9g2Q_TTdE_g).

Is that the supplied baffle or the optional 7" one?

klavender

15th March 2016, 15:12

Removed this Saturday. It's a disabled security system installed by the PO. It was quite a pain as several wires were tied into the ignition switch wires. Had to remove several wires from the connector to put heat shrink over the OEM wires that were exposed.

y2kvette

15th March 2016, 19:36

Installed my UltraGauge with the windshield mount , no problem seeing the gauge or other cars. The only issue is theft , I do put a baseball cap over it when I park but it still pretty visible and I have put the top and windows up. I could move it down to console area but there's no good mounting area there. 239051

agp1956

15th March 2016, 19:52

I installed a set of Infinity 6832cf 5x7" speakers right behind the windblocker behind each seatback. Have only taken a short test drive and they are providing excellent rear fill, which was the reason for installing them.

daender

15th March 2016, 20:26

Is that the supplied baffle or the optional 7" one?

It's a 6" packed baffle tip I bought new from Good-Win-Racing (http://www.good-win-racing.com/mazda/miata/60-1324.html). It says 7" but just removed mine and measured it, 6 inches.

BluFalcon

15th March 2016, 22:01

Did some interior detailing:

Pulled the seats out to treat the leather, and do a proper vacuum and carpet cleaning.

Got rid of the hideous wood grain dash kit that my car came with. Removal of the kit was easy enough, but the glue/tape cleanup was a pain.

Will reinstall interior tomorrow.

Photo

16th March 2016, 02:02

Took OEM anti-swaybars out. FM ones are going in. Getting ready to put coilovers in.

Enthuz

16th March 2016, 08:30

That's where I mounted mine. Also mounted it there when used in my Pathfinder.

Do the newer ones show voltage?

kirby

16th March 2016, 09:52

Bought a new to me nb.
Drove it around.

Almost got hit by a Porsche, literally cm's off the right front end. Kinda laughed it off, kinda. I haven't driven a miata in the past 6 months, and day one already am back in the groove of having to look out for other cars.

Now I'm ordering parts for every single thing I have to fix.

y2kvette

16th March 2016, 12:49

That's where I mounted mine. Also mounted it there when used in my Pathfinder.

Do the newer ones show voltage?

Yes , I have it displayed in the lower right hand corner in the picture.

Vehicle battery voltage is passed through a fuse and delivered to pin 16 of the vehicles OBDII connector. UltraGauge measures this voltage and displays it as UltraGauge Battery Voltage. For all intents and purposes UltraGauge Battery Voltage and the vehicles Battery voltage are equivalent. As the battery voltage decreases, a point is reached where UltraGauge and the vehicles computer will no longer function. Battery voltage accuracy is typically +- 1% of reading
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________

supergoat

16th March 2016, 13:49

Unsuccessfully tried to find an oil leak. I can't see it, but I can smell it. Grrrr....

Also hooked up my aftermarket fog lights to the factory switch, replaced a headlight socket that melted and washed it up. Overall a good day for the car.

Mathias

16th March 2016, 14:19

Rebuilt the driver's side seatbelt mechanism after the plastic inside was brittle, cracked, and causing the belt to lock when it was retracted. I measured and 3D printed the parts and reinstalled it. It works exactly as it came from the factory after some testing.

NOTE: I'm not reusing these mechanisms as it was more of a "can I do this" kind of thing. While I believe I can, I don't trust my mechanical abilities more than a new OEM mechanism when it comes to my own safety. #shouldBeWorkingButSlackingOff

Dale D

16th March 2016, 17:56

Was looking to do something about the factory rear spoiler. It had some pretty heavy wear from wind and rain, and had lost the clear coat in a few places. I recently painted my side mirrors flat black with matte clear, and they came out pretty well, so I did the same with the spoiler.

Unfortunately I am not as sold on the look as I was hoping I would be. I think when I finally get around to color-matching my hard top, I will go back to Sunlight Silver on the spoiler.

At some point I may also rake all the leaves in the yard.

https://daledaugherty.files.wordpress.com/2016/03/img_7252.jpg
https://daledaugherty.files.wordpress.com/2016/03/img_7244.jpg

doane2u

17th March 2016, 00:45

Yes, I think you need to paint it the car color, it stands out too much and looks like an add on. You can probably do it yourself with spray paint cans of matching silver and clear coat.

RingoP

17th March 2016, 18:38

Got my 01 SE 6mt last week. So far I've just driven it, washed and admired it!
New drivers side headlight arrived today. I thought "5 minute job". So much for that...I should have searched the forum first!
Tomorrow, I'll be removing the front bumper cover :D and replacing the drivers side headlight! Thanks to all who posted this handy bit of info.

Unusualdesigner

17th March 2016, 18:51

:welcome:

Photo

17th March 2016, 20:06

Please register in the 2001 SE BRG thread http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=447079&page=50

Welcome!

SuperfDuper

18th March 2016, 09:42

Took a road trip to Treasure Coast Miata yesterday. Picked up a pair of rear calipers and they installed the Racing Beat front sway bar I have been carrying in the trunk for months. Pretty cool setup they have over there, Tim did an awesome job with the stubborn oem endlinks, would definitely recommend if anyone is in the area.

moookie1051

18th March 2016, 09:45

Replaced the clutch master cylinder , bled the system .:jump:

david_

18th March 2016, 10:43

Cleaned/lubed window tracks and replaced the missing accessory belt tensioner.

PrintError

18th March 2016, 14:58

I looked at mine longingly as I got in my truck and pulled out of the garage. Damn rainy day here in Florida.

SMLierow

18th March 2016, 16:15

I tried to quiet the FM Intake for the MSM using the poly-fill trick. It worked pretty well, probably about a 30% reduction in turbo, intake, bov noise. It's mainly so I don't drive my wife crazy on longer trips, otherwise it also sounds fantastic without.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1603/25794566191_7b588ddf63_c.jpg

shoult

18th March 2016, 20:55

The weather in Nashville doesn't look too bad for the next few days so I started working towards installing my FFS coldside supercharger. To me the hardest part so far was removing the the bottom nuts from the bottom half of the intake manifold. Mazda seems to have wanted that to stay attached to the car permanently. I didn't quite get the manifold off today which was my goal. It started getting dark before I could get to that single 10mm bolt st the back of the manifold. I'm glad I decided to replace all the coolant hoses and gave them on hand. It meant I could slash and burn those oil cooler lines and get them out of my way.

It's supposed to rain tomorrow which doesn't really fit my plan. But if it's and on and off rain I'll still get out there. Sunday through Wednesday is at least supposed to be dry if not warm.

Think I'll order some rebuilt injectors while I'm at it. I already ordered a FM clutch kit. I still have to get the AEM Failsafe WB/Boost gauge installed. So much to do before the season hits.

Captain Bwana

18th March 2016, 21:51

Got tagged by a semi. The MSM went to the car hospital.

boomercarguy

18th March 2016, 22:32

Unsuccessfully tried to find an oil leak. I can't see it, but I can smell it. Grrrr....

Also hooked up my aftermarket fog lights to the factory switch, replaced a headlight socket that melted and washed it up. Overall a good day for the car.

Place cardboard underneath the car while it is parked overnight and then inspect the cardboard before you remove it from underneath to find where a drip may exist. I always look at my garage floor after I pull my Miata out; yeah, I used to have an MG.

Unusualdesigner

19th March 2016, 00:32

Got tagged by a semi. The MSM went to the car hospital.

Sorry to hear that, as long as YOU are OK, sheet metal can be straightened out.

Pictures or it didn't happen ;)

Unusualdesigner

19th March 2016, 00:33

Isn't that how you change the oil in an MG? -wait for the level to drop enough from the leaks and add a quart? :rofl:

shoult

19th March 2016, 14:28

Today at 12:30 pm something momentus happened. Parts started going BACK ON the the car. It started with that stupid coolant hose from the oil cooler to the back of the head. Now the manifold is going on. I'm walking the MP62 out to the car after I finish this message and eat a slice. Soon all the parts that have been living on my dining room table since before christmas will be outside and I'll be able to eat on the table again. More importantly, the Miata should be laying down near 200 rwhp.

WooHOOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!

Rancho5

19th March 2016, 16:28

Took seats out to install coverking Costco seat covers. Vacuumed and cleaned under the seats too.

Took it in for an oil change after 1,000 miles on the new motor. Had them use synthetic oil. Now I think I have a small leak.

aussieguy

19th March 2016, 17:30

Took it in for an oil change after 1,000 miles on the new motor. Had them use synthetic oil. Now I think I have a small leak.

they may have spilled some when it was changed? Clean it and keep an eye on it

jburnham

19th March 2016, 18:01

Engine mounts, the last of the coolant hoses (the PITA heater hose with the clamp at the back of the engine), and fog lights to complete my bulb refresh.

Going into the shop for clutch and flywheel on Monday.

Air conditioner evap/drier and foamectomy/mesh seat covers will wrap up my list [for now].

shoult

19th March 2016, 18:56

And here's where I stopped for the day. The new manifold wasn't any easier to put on the the old one was to get off.

http://i155.photobucket.com/albums/s309/shoult/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/FFS%20Install/IMG_1565_zpshwzapecv.jpg (http://s155.photobucket.com/user/shoult/media/Vehicles/2002%20Mazda%20Miata%20SE/FFS%20Install/IMG_1565_zpshwzapecv.jpg.html)

JAGI410

19th March 2016, 19:19

Had some 195/60/14 Falken Azenus RT615K's mounted and balanced.

nwick

19th March 2016, 21:12

I participate regularly in various motorcycle/car forums and this thread is usually a fun one. It gives us a lot of ideas of what each of us does from one day to another on our bikes and cars and also gives us ideas of what to do to our own NB's...

Please post here if you drove it to work, took the dust cover off it & washed it, took the engine out, pumped up the tires, turned on the lights & looked at it... etc etc, you get the idea. Nothing is too trivial to post here... Anything goes except NSFW items...

So??

I think this was a pretty good idea. This is the 23,428th post.

Today I drove my MX-5 to the store.

Stock4Me

19th March 2016, 22:10

Just finished pulling the old Robbins top off this evening. Took a couple hours, but I was marking parts and taking video of each step.

Something that made it easier for me - putting it up on blocks. (ok, not actual blocks, you know what I mean...) Nice to have the little car up where I can get to things. :thumbs:

Tomorrow, installing a new Robbins top with heated glass. Wish me luck! :rofl:

Algreen

20th March 2016, 00:09

And here's where I stopped for the day. The new manifold wasn't any easier to put on the the old one was to get off.

Very exciting, good luck with the install! You changed your sig pretty quickly...lol

And wash that engine compartment when done!

aussieguy

20th March 2016, 20:11

reconditioned and painted my soft top latches
they were looking pretty bad... paint was faded and a lot of oxidization pitting.

also passenger side needed filing on the release button so it would stay closed
http://www.miata.net/garage/top_latch/index.html

both LONG stretch springs rusted out and they broke as soon as I touched them

ACE hardware to the rescue... they had a big selection of springs and found some that I could use + rattle can of primer + black auto paint

20 minutes of sanding with wet/dry dry sanded only, 100 and 240 grit got the latches nice and smooth again.

everything back in car and they look and work like new

as a reward downloaded some new songs for driving
(oldies... Moody blues, Joe co*cker etc)

me77

20th March 2016, 20:52

...also passenger side needed filing on the release button so it would stay closed...This is only a temporary fix in my experience. It will work, but only a few months. The only worthwhile fix is to drill a hole and put a screw into the latch mechanism: http://www.miata.net/garage/softtop_latch/

Sven Of 9

20th March 2016, 21:05

Well yesterday, in between rain (it was beautiful yesterday, now raining again...but hey, we need it)....full brake job on the '03SE. New pads, rotors, hydraulic flush. Nice....

BestCoast

20th March 2016, 22:11

Got lost in a sea of cones in the rain... My first time autocrossing, and had a blast. :thumbs:

EAEA

20th March 2016, 23:04

Shredded some rear tires. Lots of smoke and sideways action. :thumbs:

klavender

20th March 2016, 23:17

Spent ALL weekend doing something to this car. I know I'm slightly OCD when it comes to my cars but I'm starting to think I'm slightly insane. Spent Saturday stripping and washing my newly found surfboard seats AND cleaning the plenum and putting that back together (to correct a P0106). Also the vacuum line going to the solenoid was completely clogged. Seemed to fix it but I have a new boost sensor and solenoid on the way from the Parts Group anyways. Just for overkill. Then spent 8 hours today installing a Robbins soft top and assembling one seat. That was enough for today and then alcohol was required.

david_

20th March 2016, 23:50

Changed transmission fluid and both shifter boots.

Gristle

21st March 2016, 00:52

Installed Racing Beat 1.125" front sway bar, Racing Beat reinforcing bolts and blocks, and 949 end links on my NB1. All went well, but

As reported elsewhere, the urethane bushings provided by Racing Beat are too large for the sway bar mounting brackets provided, and when you tighten the mounts, the bushings compress too much, and the sway bar binds and wont rotate freely in the mounts like it should. Solutions appear to be (1) cutting, grinding or sanding the flat side of the bushing down to fit flush under the mount without compression, or (2) throwing a couple of washers on each bolt above the mounts to adapt the mount height to the bushings.

I tried to sand down the bushings, but they are tough. I sanded them down about 1/16" and it still bound, so I added one washer per bolt under each mount and that did the trick. With no sanding, expect to need more washers.

The photo below shows the extra washer (and why you need it):

http://i1218.photobucket.com/albums/dd406/KarnakPrime/IMG_1665.jpg (http://s1218.photobucket.com/user/KarnakPrime/media/IMG_1665.jpg.html)

So, great bar Racing Beat, but would it kill you to ship a correctly sized bushing? Judging from old posts, it's been wrong for at least 8 years now.

SMLierow

21st March 2016, 20:31

For our anniversary I took the wife through the mountains to the winery we went to on our first date. I can't believe how much the FM MSM intake kit has transformed this car!

Photo

21st March 2016, 23:18

- FM sways on both ends
- Tein Street Advance coilovers

http://i.imgur.com/qbEtSIl.jpg

Discovered I need new front pads and rotors, placed order. Will be doing brakes next.

http://i.imgur.com/S2egODP.jpg

Algreen

21st March 2016, 23:31

Installed fluidic washer jets. It's a silly thing, but I always hated how the factory washer jets just hosed the windshield and side windows. These new jets mist the front windshield much better, don't hose the car and save fluid. Win, win, win!

Jims10AE

22nd March 2016, 01:17

What did I do to my 10AE?

I cut off the rear view mirrors.

Well, I didn't really cut off the mirrors. I cut off the stick on mirrors.

About 14 years ago I decided the existing outside mirrors didn't show enough of the lanes on both sides of me so I installed a 2 1/2" convex stick on mirror on the right and left mirrors.

They worked great for a lot of years but now they look like the polished bottom of a aluminum pan instead of a mirror.

I tried using my fingers to pry them off but the adhesive was still strong enough to keep them from budging even a little.

I read on the web that most people managed to just pry theirs off without breaking the main mirror but that didn't sound like something I wanted to risk.

Then I found one person who used fishing line and I thought, "that might work".

Getting about a foot and a half of 16 pound test nylon line and a couple of sticks to use as handles I tied a stick to each end of the line. This made a toothless cable saw, of sorts.

Running it behind the mirror and pulling the line snug, a few back and forth movements of the line by using the pull handles and "plop". The mirror fell to the ground.

The other side was just as easy.

The stuff left behind on the glass was easily cut off using a razor sharp chisel. A good single edge razor blade or a blade for a Utility knife would also work.
Just remember, hold the blade tilted up at about 30-60 degrees and keep the edge tight against the glass.
It won't damage the mirror and the old adhesive and foam/fiber mirror backing is easily peeled off.
A shot of WD40 will soften any stubborn spots if you give it a minute to soak in.

I thought I'd pass this idea on to you all. It's easy. It works. It doesn't risk damaging your mirror.

Unusualdesigner

22nd March 2016, 05:46

Heavy duty dental floss works well too. ;)

Kmier

22nd March 2016, 06:29

- FM sways on both ends
- Tein Street Advance coilovers

http://i.imgur.com/qbEtSIl.jpg

Discovered I need new front pads and rotors, placed order. Will be doing brakes next.

http://i.imgur.com/S2egODP.jpg

Those polished wheels look so right. Would love to do that to mine. That's factory on the BRG, right?

With hardtop, even better!

Photo

22nd March 2016, 11:47

Yes, that's factory wheel style for SE/BRG 2001. I just need to find BRG top or pain this one.

Guitarzan

22nd March 2016, 15:25

Got her out of storage! Did an oil change, threw on the Rays, and went for a drive.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1559/25942373236_4b4247b46d_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/FwrrKb)IMG_3786 (https://flic.kr/p/FwrrKb) by Dean W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127226014@N05/), on Flickr

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1685/25873318531_dfaba8f394_z.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/FqkwbP)IMG_3787 (https://flic.kr/p/FqkwbP) by Dean W (https://www.flickr.com/photos/127226014@N05/), on Flickr

PaddyG

23rd March 2016, 08:27

What did I do to my 10AE?
I installed a 2 1/2" convex stick on mirror on the right and left mirrors.

+1^^^

I put these spot mirrors on every vehicle I own and have for years. I have driven a thousand miles a week for work and have for 20 years and I can say that with these mirrors there is no blind spot.

And you are right they only last about 5 or 6 years.

tobra

23rd March 2016, 11:01

Tire rotaion, oil change and Wix XP filter, the taller one for the Mazda Millenia, Mobil 1 5W-30

71089 mileage

david_

23rd March 2016, 15:09

Replaced sway bar end links. No more clunks!

SMLierow

23rd March 2016, 18:38

Yesterday while parked in Atlanta, I noticed pollen season was about to hit hard in Ga. So Molly got a wash and her first layer of Liquid Glass. I've never used it before, but became interested when I read about it in the ND section. Hopefully tomorrow I'll do another light wash and add another coat.

https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1651/26015262405_dd9e861c86_c.jpg
https://farm2.staticflickr.com/1441/25714896150_745dd4f898_c.jpg

barmato

23rd March 2016, 19:44

Hooked up a battery tender pigtail to make it easier to throw a charger on the car. Trying to nurse the original battery in my 2004 through another season.

jamesr242

23rd March 2016, 20:39

Had a little fun at lunch time (in Mexico of course):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lFoGtVCVlMA

Also, not today, but recently finished up my project adding gauges and replacing the head unit with a bluetooth receiver + amp.

http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff332/jamesrosenblatt/IMG_20160305_173210.jpg

Also added a panel mount USB jack so I don't have to have the tuning cord dangling out of the glove box.

http://i537.photobucket.com/albums/ff332/jamesrosenblatt/IMG_20160221_131919.jpg

Chris GTO TT

23rd March 2016, 22:37

Back to summer mode!

http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag459/christobal65/Miata%20Stuff/IMG_20160323_190736_zpsfskqqgk1.jpg (http://s1375.photobucket.com/user/christobal65/media/Miata%20Stuff/IMG_20160323_190736_zpsfskqqgk1.jpg.html)

Algreen

26th March 2016, 14:11

Installed a Dakota Digital speedo healer today. Will need to calibrate to GPS on the highway. Also ran the wiring and installed an AEM Wideband. Just need to head to the muffler shop to install the sensor bung. Hoping they can do that in the car without removing the midpipe.

doane2u

26th March 2016, 14:40

Chris, those wheels look great against the black. :thumbs:

What brand and how much do they weigh?

FuzzyLogic

26th March 2016, 17:46

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Booney1999/DSCF2349.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/Booney1999/media/DSCF2349.jpg.html)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Booney1999/DSCF2350.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/Booney1999/media/DSCF2350.jpg.html)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Booney1999/DSCF2351.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/Booney1999/media/DSCF2351.jpg.html)
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y80/Booney1999/DSCF2348.jpg (http://s3.photobucket.com/user/Booney1999/media/DSCF2348.jpg.html)
15x9 Advanti Storms and Rivals.

bobesser

26th March 2016, 17:55

New door pulls!
http://i.imgur.com/BGSiAwWh.jpg

and replaced cracked interior door panel.
http://i.imgur.com/QqeKacsh.jpg

bobesser

26th March 2016, 17:56

FuzzyLogic, sharp car. I am building a similar emerald green up in MD.

Chris GTO TT

26th March 2016, 18:21

Chris, those wheels look great against the black. :thumbs:

What brand and how much do they weigh?

They are the Jongbloed wheels Flyin Miata had made a year or so ago they missed their weight target I believe they are 14lbs each.

FuzzyLogic

27th March 2016, 09:15

FuzzyLogic, sharp car. I am building a similar emerald green up in MD.

Thanks! Saw your build thread, looks like its a very nice one. Hope to see you out at an autocross

shoult

27th March 2016, 12:01

Spent yesterday working on the FFS install. To those of you thinking about doing this, it's NOT a 4 hour job. It's going to take a bunch of time nd the instructions are helpful, but not really in the right order. I find myself following the instructions, then having to undo a few steps because it's much easier to do some things without everything installed in the way. A prime example is the EGR tube. The manual has you install the throttle body adaptor (with EGR fitting) along with the throttle body. Then attach the EGR tube. But like anybody whose replaced a clutch slave cylinder, you know it's easier to attach the lines without stripping them when everything is loose. So off comes the throttle body and the throttle body adapter. The adapter has to come completely off because it's gasket is black RTV and it needs to be completely cleaned off. Then attach the EGR line, re-seal the throttle body adapter and then don't attach the throttle body because there are some vacuum lines that are going to be easier to attach before it goes on.

Also the pictures in the manual really need to be reshot. They are very low resolution and even at the small size in the manual they are pixelated.

But overall, the install isn't too hard so far. If you're doing a FFS install and have been considering replacing your coolant hoses, now is the time to do it. You will never have better access to the two oil cooler lines than now.

Manniquin

27th March 2016, 12:36

Yesterday I finished:

Seat heater(s) Switches - which completed the Katzkin leather replacement.

Upper & lower Shifter boots and bushings - the 5X instructions were very helpful. Although, I could not hold a socket in place to remove the aft pin. I used a 12MM box end wrench and some thick duct tape on that as well as on the vice grips.

amazing what the proper application of force will do.

drove her yesterday shifts are clean and crisp and bun's are toasty on a cool pre-eater evening.

KipA

27th March 2016, 13:55

I installed the Sylfex AuxMod. It works great for keeping the stock Bose - with removing the head unit being the most difficult part. (Ok, that and the hour I spent looking for just one of the three aux cords I knew that had laying around on hand already.)

He's a fast shipper. Highly recommend.

cw_01miata

27th March 2016, 14:05

Going on three years now at miata.net and I have to say that I simply Love This Thread at this time of year

Sanchinguy

27th March 2016, 19:29

Got it ready for spring!

Removed the winter cover, dusted it off, checked all of the fluids, took the storage wheels off and re-mounted the 6ULs, and re-installed the battery. Also installed new Lloyd Rubbertite floor mats (I like 'em).

Gave the key a twist and voila, it kicked right over into a nice idle. Backed it out and let it run for a while - no leaks, no drips, no smoke, no fumes...

Since it was such a beautiful afternoon, I had to take it around the block just to make sure everything was working - top down, of course. Ran like a champ.

My insurance won't kick in for a few weeks, but it's ready to go. God, I love this car!

Jmacmaz

27th March 2016, 20:11

I'm jealous of all the he nice stuff being done. I PLasti-dipped my spoiler and cleans out some wheat seeds today:dunno:

charliebear

27th March 2016, 22:15

Replaced leaky valve cover gasket, CAS cap, radiator + hoses, oil change, throttle body cleaned, wire brushed valve cover, buffed out paint swirls.

Tomorrow: taking out the seats and center console for the interior shampoo guy and check if shifter rebuild is needed (most likely).

Ready for Spring+Summer top down driving!

http://i.imgur.com/Em6Du3T.jpg?1

sixspeed

27th March 2016, 22:16

Took the car cover off it after its long hibernation. Oil's already been changed so all we're waiting on now is April 1st when the insurance goes back on it.

kendawson

27th March 2016, 22:49

Tackled the plugs and wires. Ultimately much easier than I thought. That and cleaning the MAF seems to have unleashed some power. Very pleased.
240208
Before

240209
After

240210
Plugs. Any diagnosis? The center electrodes look very small, pointy. Ceramics a bit discolored. Not sure when they were last changed. Same pkug type except the originals are the "IX" version

mx54us

27th March 2016, 22:50

Just finished pulling the old Robbins top off this evening. Took a couple hours, but I was marking parts and taking video of each step.

Something that made it easier for me - putting it up on blocks. (ok, not actual blocks, you know what I mean...) Nice to have the little car up where I can get to things. :thumbs:

Tomorrow, installing a new Robbins top with heated glass. Wish me luck! :rofl:

Good luck with it. It must be a tough job, since I just got a quote for a new Robbins top like that installed for $1,500. Bet you're saving a lot!

norcal707

27th March 2016, 23:04

Drove to point reyes light house. 250 miles round trip
http://i966.photobucket.com/albums/ae141/7nor0cal7/20160327_122527.jpg (http://s966.photobucket.com/user/7nor0cal7/media/20160327_122527.jpg.html)

doane2u

27th March 2016, 23:21

Nice drive!

Photo

27th March 2016, 23:58

Almost finished roll-bar install. Hopefully will finish putting trim back tomorrow on Tuesday. Will post pictures when done.

norcal707

28th March 2016, 00:43

Nice drive!

It sure was!!!!:thumbs:

rwyatt365

28th March 2016, 08:39

In an effort to rid myself of a P0300 code I;

- (re-)set the gap on the CPS
- checked the spark plug gaps (all were good)
- cleaned the plug wires
- cleaned the contacts on the coil pack & connectors

We'll see if that resolves this infernal problem - I can't get registered until I can pass the OBD check w/o any codes.

shoult

28th March 2016, 10:29

Plugs. Any diagnosis? The center electrodes look very small, pointy. Ceramics a bit discolored. Not sure when they were last changed. Same pkug type except the originals are the "IX" version

The plugs tips are small and pointy because they're the useless, overly expensive Iridium plugs which are not designed to give performance, but are designed to live 100K or more miles in vehicles that are hard to change plugs in. As you have discovered, the Miata is not hard to change plugs in.

Unusualdesigner

28th March 2016, 12:25

As you have discovered, the Miata is not hard to change plugs in.

For the price of one set of Iridium plugs I can replace the OEM spec plugs every year for several years and always have a fresh set of plugs in place. :wave:

Chris@Moss

28th March 2016, 12:29

I bought it:

http://i.imgur.com/oz2DEQs.jpg

It's a 2004. Here with my 1990 (and front bumper covered in bugs from the drive home from Phoenix):
http://i.imgur.com/lCE11p0.jpg

shoult

28th March 2016, 12:50

For the price of one set of Iridium plugs I can replace the OEM spec plugs every year for several years and always have a fresh set of plugs in place. :wave:

On my 1992 and 2000 I used to change wires and plugs yearly. NGK Blue wires and NGK V-Power copper plugs. Cost about $50/year and took 30 minutes or so without even getting dirty.

With my current 2002 SE I really haven't settled into a rhythm yet. But it will be NGK V-Power copper plugs and what ever wire set that works well on the semi-COP system. Changed yearly or maybe bi-yearly.

Unusualdesigner

28th March 2016, 12:54

I bought it:
:thumbs:

Nice score! Love those AZ cars.

Our '04 came from Prescott.

Chris@Moss

28th March 2016, 12:57

Thanks! This one was actually a CA car until 2013. Lived in Long Beach most of it's life, if I remember correctly from the carfax.

Unusualdesigner

28th March 2016, 12:59

On my 1992 and 2000 I used to change wires and plugs yearly. NGK Blue wires and NGK V-Power copper plugs. Cost about $50/year and took 30 minutes or so without even getting dirty.

My '04 had 29K miles when I bough it last year, the plugs looked like they never had been touched since it left JP. Early this year I pulled them to check and they didn't even need regapping. -left them alone. I did replace the wires [not the COP extensions] with a Cobalt set I got free from Moss as part of their latest "buy something, we throw something for free" promotion.

Noticed no change whatsoever :dunno: -they do look pretty, though :D

Unusualdesigner

28th March 2016, 13:02

Thanks! This one was actually a CA car until 2013. Lived in Long Beach most of it's life, if I remember correctly from the carfax.

Oh well, as long as it's as rust free as our '04.

You coming down for the Tech Day and Board meeting?

SMLierow

28th March 2016, 14:33

I completed the eyeball vent-ectomy and did the eclipse vent mod. So much cold, directional air just in time for AC season!

kendawson

28th March 2016, 16:59

Interesting. Car is very happy now, good advice from the forums and went with the standard plugs.

Do people replace the semi-COPS on a regular schedule? They looked fine. If I'm not mistaken, the plug wires are the original black-covered-in-tape ones. The normal plug wires had a bit of wear, the semi-cops looked fine to me...

shoult

28th March 2016, 18:00

Interesting. Car is very happy now, good advice from the forums and went with the standard plugs.

Most people just replace the two extension wires.

Unusualdesigner

28th March 2016, 18:41

Only time the COP extensions need to be replaced is if they have been oil soaked due to a leaky valve cover gasket or carbon tracked because water got in there and started to arc. Otherwise they should last the life of the car. -so theory says anyway.

kallsop

28th March 2016, 18:53

The drive from Bodega Bay to SF along the PCH is such a cool drive.

:thumbs:

doane2u

28th March 2016, 23:21

The drive from Bodega Bay to SF along the PCH is such a cool drive.

:thumbs:

Yes, and the drives over the coast hills from side to side are a ball.

doane2u

28th March 2016, 23:22

I bought it:

http://i.imgur.com/oz2DEQs.jpg

It's a 2004. Here with my 1990 (and front bumper covered in bugs from the drive home from Phoenix):
http://i.imgur.com/lCE11p0.jpg

icebox white, what are the plans for it, Chris? :D

Chris@Moss

29th March 2016, 14:38

Nothing too grand. It will be our traveling car (where my 1990 was built for track use), so performance-ish suspension that doesn't kill the ride, a roll bar, it needs a new softtop... and a second key, it only came with one. Is that a pain with the factory security? And did these cars come with a door/trunk fob? The driver's side door lock is very sticky (which I can fix).

rsv1rem

29th March 2016, 14:59

My second key cost me $170.00 including programing. Seems expensive. Other's try a self-fix.

Never declare a Miata rust free until you check behind the front end splash guards. I learned that the hard way.

Dale D

29th March 2016, 15:13

Replaced the washer fluid jets with the Mazda Tribute fluidic jets. Such a cheap mod, but so many smiles. Why? Why do I find such enjoyment from superior spray nozzles?

Chris@Moss

29th March 2016, 15:13

I've been reading up on it. And the keyless fob deal too. Darn.

Isabel

29th March 2016, 16:00

I've been reading up on it. And the keyless fob deal too. Darn.
Fobs are easy to program. Keys, from what I've read here on the m.net (thanks for your support), not so much.

Chris@Moss

29th March 2016, 16:03

:thumbs:

It's just that both a key and a fob are kind of expensive. Especially if I need to go to the dealer for the key, since I only have one and don't know the immobilizer code.

shoult

29th March 2016, 16:30

Fobs are easy to program. Keys, from what I've read here on the m.net (thanks for your support), not so much.

Keys are easy to program IF you have 2 originals to make a third. The blanks are still more expensive then a $3 HD key, but the programming is fairly easy. Making a second key when you only have one is where the problem comes in.

nwick

29th March 2016, 18:47

So, are you saying that the insurance for avoiding the one key dilemma is to make yourself a third key when you have two? Makes sense.

Isabel

29th March 2016, 19:10

Maybe the best insurance is to make two more keys than you need and keep them in your safe deposit box at the bank.

boomercarguy

29th March 2016, 19:49

Most people just replace the two extension wires.

After getting a CEL in my 2001 LS along with my engine "missing" at 110K miles, I discovered my #4 cylinder COP had burnt up. Smelled like burnt news paper. I replaced them with OEM COP's and blue NGK wires. I plan to do this every 90K miles when I do my "big" service. I change my V-Power NGK plugs @ 30K mile intervals.

Chris GTO TT

29th March 2016, 22:22

In my continuing chasing down of a nasty pulley squeal I threw a timing light on it to see if the crank pulley had spun, the timing marks were of course perfect. I'm leaning towards a bad bearing on my brand new Gates Water pump :sad:

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